Color change of Goldfish!

Dear Rick,
I hope you got all the pics of the fish. As you can see, Bunny started out in Sept, 2003 as a red and white ranchu. in Jan, 2004 she began to turn peach... and you can see the rest.


I learned very quickly that Goldfish coloring is very hard to predict sometimes. I thought I was buying a red and white ranchu and look what happened!! I wouldn't have thought it was possible until I saw the transition for myself. Bunny, a beautiful brilliant red-orange colored fish, is now approximately 8 inches long from nose to tail and her width is almost 5 inches. Bunny's body also has alot of girth to it. She's a very meaty fish. Holly (the black and orange calico), the fish that I got from your successor, has almost caught up to her in less than a year.


Both were fed only your PRO-GOLD AND SPIRULINA FLAKES. Now I've started them on your shrimp pellets, salad supreme, and and fortified brine shrimp. Both fish enjoy all of your products. And aren't the results amazing!!!? You have been very helpful to me throughout my goldfish experience and I appreciate the knowledge you have given me.


Thanks again Rick for all your help. And, if you would, please share my experience with other collectors regarding Goldfish coloration.
Sandi P.

Are you you Killing your Goldfish with kindness?

I would like to share with you a true story about a very wonderful and great lady I knew, by the name of Pat. Pat was a true Goldfish lover and had thousands of dollars worth of very high quality Goldfish in her collection that she bought from Goldfish Connection. Pat had a beautiful family room with lots the best goldfish aquariums and filter systems money could buy. Plus, Pat's husband built her a goldfish pond that came from the outside of her home into her family room.
For the first six months Pat was happy, her goldfish were healthy, growing and thriving. Her goldfish were even spawning for her which shows me how healthy they were with good goldfish care. She always called me every time she had new goldfish fry and I always enjoyed talking with her, because of the enthusiasm and love she had for her goldfish.


Then the phone calls started to change from being happy to having all kinds of problems. Here are just a few of the comments I received from Pat over the next six months. My pH is too high, so I added pH Down. I think my goldfish have flukes so I gave them a salt bath. I don't think the salt bath helped so I added another product. I think my goldfish have a bacterial problem so I add three different products to help them. These problems went on and on, however, over this period she never added a new goldfish, plants or snails to her goldfish aquaeiums, nothing changed.
So why was Pat having so many problems, why did she go from having strong, happy, healthy goldfish fish to goldfish with all kinds problems? Well, in a course of conversation I found Pat was spending a lot of time on the internet taking conflicting bad advice from all kinds of sources that were telling her to make all kinds all unnecessary changes. That was her problem! I said, "Pat, the conflicting advice that you are receiving and the fact that you are looking at your goldfish with a "magnifying glass" is your problem. "Please go back to the "Basics" we set up when you first bought the goldfish from me and stop "mothering" them so much" Well she did not listen and goldfish her problems continued.



I did not hear from Pat for six months. Then one day I answered the phone and a weak voice I did not recognize said "Rick this is Pat." I knew there was something wrong. I asked " How are you, why haven't I heard from you in such a long time?" Pat said, about eight months earlier she was diagnosed with cancer. We talked for quite sometime and in the course of conversation Pat told me that she had been bed ridden for the last four months (in fact she had a bed placed in her family room so she could enjoy watching her goldfish) , but could no longer take care of them. Her husband fed them once a day and did water changes for her once a week. Then she said "Rick I wanted to let you know I wish I would have listen to you a long time ago. Ever since I could not take care of the goldfish myself, they have never been healthier and the only care they receive is a feeding once a day and a water change once a week by my husband." "Now I know, as you said, I almost "mothered" them to death." I never heard from Pat again. Then about six weeks later I received a call from Pat's husband telling me she passed. I miss Pat's visits and all the good conversations I had with her.



I know how much Pat loved her Goldfish and I know if she could help you save your goldfish, Pat would be happy to share her experience with you.

Pat's experience:

Be very careful what information or advice you receive and use on your goldfish.

Do not keep looking at your goldfish with a "magnifying glass".

Good basic goldfish care is great! Over "mothering" your goldfish is not.

Last but NOT least: If your goldfish are healthy DO NOT change anything, no matter who

tells you to change.

"What's the best way to store my fish food?"

First, let me share with you the four things that really effect the freshness of your goldfish food. Heat, Light, Air and Moisture.

Now lets talk about the options we have for storage. The refrigerator, no heat, very little light, if the goldfish food is sealed in an "air tight" package no air, the problem with the "fridge" is, "Moisture", caused by condensation developing on the inside of the goldfish food package. So the "fridge" is out. So lets try freezing our goldfish food, no Heat, no Light, no Air, if sealed in an "air tight" package and no Moisture. Sounds perfect! Only one problem, the "Fatty Acids" in the goldfish food become rancid very quickly when the goldfish food is thawed. If you are going to freeze your goldfish food, freeze it in small "air tight" packages that you will use within two to three days, max.

Do not freeze large amounts of goldfish food that will take more than three days or weeks to feed, because it will spoil very fast. Storing your goldfish food in an air tight package in a cool dry place it the best. That's why I like the metallic bags we use to package our goldfish food in,you can press all the air out of of the bag and seal it air tight.

Please remember, all the good storage in the world, doesn't mean anything if your goldfish food is old when you buy it. Some goldfish foods pass many hands and lots of time before it reaches you. By the time goldfish foods are made at the mill, and sent to a "Master Distributor" then to a "Distributor" then to a "Wholesaler" then to the "Retailer" then to you, "how old is your goldfood??" And that's fast, compared to the goldfish food made in other countries that is shipped to the U.S. in very hot "containers" on ships that can take weeks to arrive here in the U.S.

Buy "American Made". The U.S. produces excellent high quality fish food. Don't be fooled by Ads, telling you goldfish food made in Japan or China is superior to "American Made" goldfish foods, it's just not true. You know I'm going to tell you about our Fish Foods we offer. Our goldfish foods like our Pro-Gold are developed for us by Dr. Matthews a Veterinarian and Doctor of Animal Nutrition, with over tweny years in Aqua-Culture research. Our Fish Foods are made in a FDA inspected, certified Mill. From us to you and no middleman guarantees freshness to you! Plus!!! our fish food is American Made!!

The importance of "Vitamin C" in Goldfish Food

Vitamin C is a vital part of any good diet. It is required for life! A study in The Journal of Epidemiology stated that people who have high levels of Vitamin C lived an average of six years longer than people with low levels of Vitamin C . It stands to reason that Vitamin C would also increase the life span our goldfish.

It is known that Vitamin C boosts the immune system. It helps to rid the body of foreign invaders by increasing the production of antibodies. This is important in helping to prevent illness.

Vitamin C al so helps form collagen. Good, healthy collagen helps build strong bones and skin. Healthy skin recovers from injury quicker and with fewer complications.

Vitamin C is a water soluble antioxidant. As such, it can bind with *aqueous free radicals so that they can not damage other healthy cells. This helps to prevent illness as well.


How does all this relate to our goldfish? Fish, like humans, do NOT produce their own Vitamin C . Goldfish need to obtain Vitamin C from dietary sources. By providing high quality goldfish food with the appropriate amount of Vitamin C , we can help ensure that our goldfish remain healthy and strong.

One reason why fish hide!
How would you answer this question?

" My biggest concern is unhealthy fish behavior. Mostly they hide at the bottom of the tank inside of a cave ornament. They perk up and swim excitedly over when they see me and are eating VERY well. They swim around after feeding, beg for more food, and pick-up gravel etc and otherwise act very normal. No flashing, gasping for air or abnormal behavior and my water tests perfect . Can you help me Rick?" Thank you, Julia C.
Here's the answer that solved her problem:
You can never have too much filtration, however, you can have too much current. Too much current in your tank will weaken and stress your fish. Strong current for your fish is like you being on an electric treadmill 24 hours a day. Some fish will stay in the same location of your tank just to keep out of the current.

Here are two tests you can do to help you determine the current is tank. Shut of your filters and air stones for a short time and see if your fish become more active. Or take a small button tied to a thread (not string) and hold one end of the thread and lower the button into your tank (do not let the button touch the bottom of your tank). Move the button around to different locations in your tank. If the current is strong the button will move with the current.

Here's what Julia had to say after she made some changes:

" You are the ONLY one that has suggested this and I think you have something. I have made some adjustments in the tank keeping most of the water movement in one area and the fish seem to already be spending more time out of the cave."

Check your current BEFORE you start treating your fish for a health problem that they do not have.

What are the three common reasons some goldfish change colors?

I receive phone calls and e-mails every week from Goldfish Collectors concerned about their goldfish changing colors and what they should do to treat them.


I would like to share with you the three most common reasons why goldfish change colors:



1- Genetics plays a big roll in the color of goldfish. When Goldfish Breeders pair their goldfish for breeding, they breed for good goldfish type and color. I'll use the beautiful moor as an example because it is one of the types of goldfish the goldfish breeders use in their goldfish breeding programs that proves my point.
I know you have seen pictures of, or even own a moor that is black as velvet with excellent goldfish type. Some moors will hold this beautiful black-velvet color while others will begin to turn gold. The reason some will turn gold is, in order to improve the bodies and or eyes of the moors, the goldfish breeders will use gold telescopes as a cross.
The goldfish breeders sort the fry (baby goldfish) for type and color at a very early stage in their lives. The fry that are black are moors, the fry that are any other color become telescopes. Now, if the genetics are just right, some of the moors will remain black their whole life, others will turn gold within six months or even years. Some will just have a light colored belly. I'm not saying that all goldfish breeders use this method of breeding, however, many of them do.



2- Goldfish Collectors with new goldfish become concerned when within a few weeks or months their GOLD goldfish start showing signs of big black patches of color on the body and fins. The black is a sign of healing. Like a "black and blue" mark on your arm after you hit it on something. The new fish have been knocked around, handled and bruised from the moment they left the country the were born in. When you bring them home and begin to give them some tender loving goldfish care, they begin to heal, that's when you see the "black". When I imported hundreds of show quality goldfish each year I was very happy to see the "black" on my GOLD goldfish, that's when I knew I had them strong and healing. It could take two weeks or longer for the "black" to disappear.



3- Now here's a color change that should throw up a big "RED FLAG" to any person who wants to give good goldfish care.
When the colors of you goldfish become very dull and your goldfish becomes inactive, act at once! This is a sign that could mean big health problems! Attention: One major cause of "dull color" are parasites!! Treat ASAP.
I've also had goldfish lose color because of a quick drop in pH. I've had goldfish become thin with dull color after major treatments of antibiotics. The reason? The "good bacteria" in their digestive tract was destroyed by the antibiotics. The nutrients of the food they were eating were not being absorbed into their system and they were starving. That's why we formulated our "Jump Start" to replace the "good bacteria" in their digestive tract. High quality probiotics are a must after any treatment of antibiotics or long sickness.



One and two above are nothing to worry about, but pay special attention to number three.
There are a few other things that could cause color change or dull color , such as poor quality food, and internal worms, however, the three above are the most common.

The proper use of Antibiotics
Antibiotics are one of the best medications we can use for treating and curing tough bacterial infections. The problem is that they can be misused. Giving an antibiotic to a fish everytime it looks sick without really knowing the true problem is a big mistake. Treating sick fish with antibiotics that have parasites, a virus or water problems (antibiotics will have No effect on these problems) will produce "super bugs" that will become immune to the antibiotics and when you really need the antibiotic for a serious bacterial infection it will be useless.
Because of the problem of finding many bacteria infections that do not respond to many antibiotics "super bugs" in the human population, the FDA is very concerned about the proper use of antibiotics in animals, that's way it's so important that we do not abuse the right to use this valuable medication.

Three Methods of treating with Antibiotics:

# 1 - Water Treatment or Bath:
Our Goldfish do not drink water, therefore in order for a water treatment to work, the antibiotic must be absorbed into the body of the fish. The problem is many antibiotics do not penetrate the fish's skin and are useless. The best antibiotic water treatment we found "that works" is our AntiBac-Bath offered on this site. Watch your water quality, bath treatments can set you good bacterial back in your tank, however they should quickly recover after treatment.


# 2 - Feeding a Medicated Food:
This is one of the most effective methods of treating your fish with antibiotics. Feeding delivers the medication right where you need it "inside your fish" where it will produce much better results than a bath in most cases. The problem is some sick fish will not eat, that's way it is so important to use a very high quality food like our Medi-Gold that is loaded with krill, shrimp even the sickness fish can't refuse. Plus, feeding Medi-Gold will not set back your filter.


# 3 - Injections
Injections are the most effective means of treating with an antibiotic, however, injections should be used as a last resort when every other treatment fails. Injectable antibiotics must be purchased from a Veterinarian.


Please remember, before reaching for the antibiotics, rule out all other problems like: water condition "the number one cause of most sick fish". Parasites, by a cheap microscope so you do not have to guess if your fish have parasites. Viruses are very hard to detect, they do not respond to antibiotics (that's way your Doctor will not give you antibiotics for a common cold). If I had a sick fish I would be concerned with the water conditions, parasites and bacterial problems. If your fish have a virus (which I find not very common in Goldfish) there is not much you can do about it with the options you have available today.

Enjoying fancy goldfish, what a great hobby!!

Welcome! There's lots to talk about when it comes to the great hobby of collecting fancy goldfish. Things like, types of goldfish, goldfish care, and goldfish disease here in the U.S. A . Fancy goldfish are considered goldfish with fancy goldfish tails, fancy goldfish with long fins and good color such as orandas, ryukins, pearl scales, moors, lionheads, ranchus, and many more. We can't forget the beautiful single tails like comets and shubukins for your goldfish ponds and aquariums.



Many fancy goldfish for sale in the U.S.A. are imported from China and Japan. Each country is known for their special type of fancy goldfish. The Japanese are known for the Japanese Ranchus, Japanese Jikins and Japanese Tosakins. Japan has huge goldfish Ranchu competitions. The ranchus are shown in shallow bowls and judged from the top, unlike the Chinese goldfish breeders who judge their goldfish ranchu from the side. Ranchu breeders come from all over the country with to compete for the title of Champion Goldfish Ranchu Breeder. Goldfish breeders give their ranchus good goldfish care and make sure they are free from goldfish diseases. Ranchus in Japan are bred and raised in shallow ponds and not aquariums.



All goldfish need good care to ward off any goldfish disease. Good goldfish care starts with excellent water conditions. No matter whether your keep your fancy goldfish in a pond or an aquarium, good water quality is a must.
First your aquarium must be the right size which is ten gallons of water per goldfish regardless of their size. Then comes the gravel. You want one thin layer of smooth gravel like polished river rock.



Next you must have plenty of oxygen and that starts with plenty of small bubbles, the type diffusers make. Now for one of the most important parts of any successful goldfish pond or goldfish aquarium, a good filter! You want a filter that moves lots of water per hour, the more the better without causing too much current. Your filter should have a lot of bio-mass to grow good bacteria, a healthy goldfish pond or goldfish aquarium needs this for good water conditions. Plus, the filter has to remove solids from your goldfish pond or goldfish aquarium. One of the best filters on the market for a goldfish aquarium is the Aqua-Master 600 . The Aqua-Master 600 filters 600 gallons per hour, it's a real power house.
Well, now we have the right size goldfish aquarium, the proper size stones, good oxygen and a super filter.


What's next? Goldfish!!
Buy your goldfish from a reputable source. There are many goldfish for sale across the U.S., however, to find a good goldfish source that really gives their goldfish, good goldfish care can be a challenge. You're looking for a goldfish dealer that treats for goldfish disease and quarantines their new goldfish for at least 30 days before they sell them. www.goldfishconnection.com is one of these sources that takes pride in the health and quality of their goldfish.


Important : Always treat ALL your NEW goldfish as if they were never quarantined. Here's how to treat new goldfish: First, add non-iodized salt to your tank at POINT 3%. (one teaspoon per gallon). Second, feed Medi-Gold no other food for two weeks. Third treat for "Flukes" with Prazi-Pro . Fourth, check your goldfish for fish lice and anchor worm, if found treat with Dimlin.
Now lets talk about Goldfish food. One of the biggest causes of goldfish illness is over feeding. Good goldfish care means feeding your goldfish all they will eat in just two or three minutes twice a day of a very high quality goldfish food like Pro-Gold . Never leave left over food in your goldfish aquarium. Left over food contaminates your water, causing many problems. Many dedicated Goldfish Collectors feed Pro-Gold in the morning and Salad Supreme or Spirulina at night. Freeze Dried Blood Worms and Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp make a great snack.



Goldfish Diseases:
As you know, no matter how hard we try to give our goldfish good goldfish care and keep our goldfish disease free in our ponds and aquariums, sometimes goldfish diseases do occur. Whether your goldfish are fancy goldfish like orandas, ryukins, lionheads, ranchus, fantails or beautiful fast swimming comets, they all need special attention at some time. Two of the main causes of goldfish illness in a goldfish pond and goldfish aquarium are bacterial disease and goldfish parasites. Many goldfish illnesses are caused by bacterial infections, however, many of the bacterial infections in goldfish are caused by goldfish parasites and here's why:

Every goldfish has a slime coat. The slime coat protects your goldfish from harmful bacteria in your goldfish pond and goldfish aquarium. When a parasite like flukes, fish lice and anchor worm pierce the slime coat of your goldfish and then drop off your goldfish,they leave a hole in the slime coat of your goldfish for the harmful bacteria in your pond and aquarium to enter the body of your goldfish causing bacterial infections like sores and ulcers.

“U. V. in the Goldfish Tank”

By: Rick G. Copeland
rick.copeland@goldfishguy.com

Recently I’ve seen a wave of concerns and questions about using Ultra Violet (U.V.) sterilizers in goldfish aquariums. This seems to be an age-old debate that resurfaces periodically. For some years now koi keepers have been using U.V. with great success in their koi ponds. U.V. in a pond helps control green water as well as free-floating bacteria and parasites in the water.

So why as goldfish keepers are we hesitant? The purpose of this article is to dispel some of the misconceptions and clarify the benefits of U.V. And as you will see, the addition of a U.V. sterilizer can only benefit our valuable goldfish collections.

U.V. and Dechlorinating products don’t mix ??



To start let’s look at the dynamics of adding a dechlorinator (usually Sodium thiosulphate) to the aquarium while doing water changes. As soon as the dechlorinator mixes with the water the chlorine is neutralized. A U.V. with the proper flow rate cannot possibly counteract this process, as the chlorine is gone before it is passed through the U.V. Also, there is no reaction producing toxic compounds when the Sodium Thiosulphate passes through an U.V.

In the case of chloramine and ammonia bonding agents there is no reaction with the U.V. that unbinds the ammonia. Since the bonding of ammonia is not as instantaneous as the neutralization of the chlorine it is prudent to pre-treat the new water prior to adding it to the aquarium. This prevents the fish being exposed to the ammonia prior to it being bound by the bonding agent and also prevents the bonding agent from being neutralized in the water before all the ammonia is bound.

Using a U.V. will neutralize medications added to the water ??



For the most part this is true. It is common practice to turn off U.V. when treating the water with medication. Once treatment is complete the U.V. is turned back on to control free-floating bacteria and parasites. This greatly reduces chances of re-infestation.

U.V. produces ozone when exposed to oxygen in the water ??



This is untrue with the germicidal type U.V. lamps used in U.V. sterilizers for aquarium water purification. There are U.V. lamps that can produce ozone. They have a pinpoint wavelength of 185.0 nanometers where 253.7 nanometers is the pinpoint of germicidal U.V.

U.V. will prevent the establishment of nitrifying bacteria ??

Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are not free-swimming bacteria therefore will not come in contact with the U.V. They attach themselves to filtration media, gravel, the sides of the aquarium, etc. The only way U.V. could effect the establishment of nitrifying bacteria is if a seed bacteria product is added to the water. In this case it would be advisable to turn off the U.V. until the free-floating, nitrifying bacteria has had a chance to get a foothold.

U.V. will cause fish to lose their resistance to disease and parasites because they are living in a sterile environment ??

Because the sterilized water from the U.V. is returned to the tank mixing it with un-sterilized water there is no way to remove all bacteria and parasites in the water. Without going into a discussion on purity coefficients suffice it to say that a properly sized U.V. with the correct flow rate will kill 99.99% of the bacterial pathogens and parasites that are in the water of the aquarium. Additionally fish produce waste, along with this waste comes bacteria. The U.V. is simply removing the disease factor in the water. Many people equate this with the “boy in the bubble” syndrome. The fish do not lose their immune system and the immune system does not go dormant. The energy used to fight disease is redirected to growth and color.

U.V. only kills bacteria and not parasites ??

Untrue. Parasites attached to the fish are of course not affected by the U.V. When a parasite is in it’s free-swimming stage of its life cycle the U.V. then will eliminate it from the water. So medication will need to be added to the tank to remove the parasites from the fish. After that the U.V. will protect them from re-infestation.

An U.V. that will produce 28,000 microwatts with a contact time with the water of five seconds will kill the following parasites and bacterial pathogens found in the goldfish aquarium:

Chilodinella
Costia
Epistylis
Heximita
Ichthyophithirius Multifilis (freshwater Ich)
Trichodina
Flukes - Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus
Argulus
Lernea (Anchor worm)

Aeromonas - hydrophila, salmonicida

Certomyxa shasta
Edwardsiella - Septicemia
Flexibacter columinaris
Mycobacterium fortuitum – Tuberculosis

Pseudomonas - flourescens, putida, anguilliseptia, aeruginosa
Sacrina lutea

Saprolegenia hyphae



In summary, with U.V. sterilization we are creating a healthier environment for our goldfish. In closed systems, like aquariums, bacterial pathogens and parasites can reproduce at alarming rates. Controlling these bacterial pathogens and parasites with U.V. can not only eliminate disease outbreaks but also produce a much healthier environment in which our goldfish will thrive.

"Filtration Options for Goldfish Aquariums"

By: Rick G. Copeland
Goldfishguy@mciworld.com

If you're ever among a group of goldfish keepers and you want a little
excitement just bring the subject of filtration. To be on the safe side,
you might want to make sure that there are no sharp objects in the room
before the subject is broached.

There are many options and combinations of options available when selecting
filtration for goldfish tanks. My hope is to present these options so that
you can make a logical choice on what will work best for you.


MECHANICAL, BIOLOGICAL, AND CHEMICAL FILTRATION

Before discussing the different types of filter let's look at the basic
goals we're trying to achieve with our filtration system.

Mechanical Filtration -- The removal of the solid detritus (fish poop) and
uneaten fish food from the aquarium. To accomplish this the filter(s) must
generate enough circulation so the solids don't settle to the bottom. The
media to trap these solids can be pleated paper cartridges, Dacron floss,
filter sponges, etc. This media is rinsed or replaced at regular intervals.

Biological Filtration -- Provides a medium in which nitrifying bacterial can
flourish. This media varies with different filters. The more oxygen
supplied to this nitrifying bacteria the more efficient the Bio-filter.

Chemical Filtration - The use of chemicals to absorb impurities or alter the
chemical makeup of the water. Some of the chemical filtration products are
ammonia-absorbing resins, phosphate-absorbing iron oxides, charcoal, and
various chemically treated filter pads. These types of media must be
regularly recharged or replaced. Personally I don't use chemical
filtration. My feelings are that with good mechanical filtration, healthy
biological filtration, and weekly water changes, chemical filtration is
unnecessary.


FILTRATION TYPES

POWER FILTERS - One of the most popular types of filters. Power filters
hang on the back of the tank. They can provide mechanical filtration,
biological filtration, and chemical filtration.

There are many brands of this type of filters. Different brands have
varying types of filtration media.

My personal favorite is the type of power filters that use sponges as the
filter media. These filters will also accommodate resins or charcoal for
chemical filtration. Instead of using chemical media I double up on the
sponges. By alternating which sponge gets rinsed out, established
nitrifying bacteria will be left undisturbed on the other sponge.

Certain brands on power filters have bio wheels attached for additional
biological filtration. Bio wheels are addressed as an individual topic
later in this article.

CANISTER FILTERS - Canister filters are another type of power filtration
that has been available to fish keepers for some time. One advantage with
canister filters is that there is more room for media allowing for more
combination of filtration media types. Also, canister filters are more
efficient in moving the water through the filtration media.

Optional media for canister filters includes sponges, Dacron floss, pleated
paper cartridges, ceramic and plastic shapes for biological growth, and of
course chemical media.

One disadvantage to canister filters is that they can be difficult to
service. Disconnecting them from the water supply and return lines can be a
wet experience if you don't have shut off valves installed or forget to use
them. Another disadvantage is that should circulation in a canister filter
stop the healthy aerobic bacteria die quickly. If the filter should stop
for some time then restart a toxic flood of anaerobic bacteria by-products
will be flushed into the tank. This can happen with any type of filter but
since the canister is a sealed system it will go anaerobic in a shorter
amount of time.

SPONGE FILTERS - Sponge filters are air driven filters that draw water
through a sponge. Sponge filters are excellent for biological filtration.
They are poor for mechanical filtration. The exception to this is when
using them for fry tanks. Then, with regular rinsing of the sponge, a
sponge filter will provide mechanical filtration without endangering the
baby fish. Sponge filters have no chemical filtration capability.

By far the best sponge filter is the cylindrical type mounted on a weighted
pedestal. These filters have large sponges that can be stacked to increase
bio-capacity. A power head can be used to drive them. Attaching the power
head to the filter is somewhat awkward so I prefer to use air to drive these
types of sponge filters.

INTERNAL CARTRIDGE FILTERS - These filters are driven by submersible water
pumps similar to power heads. They use sponges for mechanical and
biological filtration. Some of the larger models can also accommodate media
for chemical filtration. These filters are well suited for smaller tanks
and quarantine tanks.

UNDER GRAVEL FILTERS - The under gravel filter consists of a slotted,
plastic plate that rests on the bottom of the tank and gravel is placed on
top. Water is then drawn through a 1-2 inch layer of gravel either by air
driven lift tubes or power heads.

This filter is by far the most controversial among goldfish keepers.
Problems can arise with under gravel filters if the gravel is not regularly
vacuumed and they are used for mechanical as well as biological filtration.
I view the under gravel filter as biological filter only. A power or
canister filter must be used in conjunction with an under gravel filter in
order to provide effective mechanical filtration.

When setting up an under gravel filter the proper flow rate must be
determined. For an under gravel filter to function properly a flow rate of
1-2 gallons per minute per square foot is required. For example a 55-gallon
tank has roughly four square feet of bottom area. This would require
240-480 gallons per hour of flow rate to ensure proper circulation through
the gravel. Using power heads to drive an under gravel filter is highly
recommended.

Regular vacuuming of the gravel is required to ensure that no accumulated
waste builds up and no pockets of anaerobic activity is allowed to grow or
sulfide gas to accumulate. Also, every 6 to 18 months the gravel and filter
plates should be removed to clean any built up waste.

REVERSE FLOW UNDERGRAVEL FILTER - This filter is basically the same as a
standard under gravel filter except the water flows from under the filter
plates, up through the gravel. This is done by attaching the outflow of a
canister filter or power head to one a lift tube of the under gravel filter.
All other lift tubes are removed or sealed off. It is important that the
water pumped under the gravel be pre-filtered so that waste will not
accumulated under the filter plates.

The advantage of this type of under gravel filter is that the solid waste is
kept above the gravel where it can be removed by a canister or power filter.
Regular vacuuming of the gravel is still recommended to clear any channeling
or dead spots that may form in the gravel.

WET/DRY FILTERS - Is one of the most efficient biological filters is the
wet/dry filter. This filter was developed for saltwater reef aquariums for
optimum water quality. The concept is that nitrifying bacteria thrives in
an oxygen rich environment. This oxygen rich environment is pre-filtered
water dripping over various plastic shapes (bio-balls).

One concern with using a wet/dry filter on a goldfish tank is to provide
enough circulation to ensure adequate mechanical filtration.

There is also an overhead wet/dry filter that is gaining popularity among
goldfish keepers. These filters rest on the top of the tank and are
designed for aquariums with the capacity of 30 gallons or under.

BIO WHEELS - Bio wheels are cylinders constructed of pleated paper. The bio
wheel turns with the flow of water produced from the outlet of a power
filter, canister filter, or a power head. This action results in an oxygen
rich environment for maintaining nitrifying bacteria. The extra oxygen
added to the water by bio wheels is a welcome addition to any goldfish tank.

FLUIDIZED FILTERS - Fluidized filters consist of a container containing sand
that pre-filtered water is circulated through. The sand becomes the media
on which the nitrifying bacteria will establish. The advantage of this type
of filter is that while the sand is in motion the nitrifying bacteria is
constantly exposed to nutrients and oxygen.


DESIGNING YOUR FILTRATION SYSTEM

Filtering a goldfish tank requires both mechanical and biological
filtration. When deciding on a filter design for a goldfish tank I prefer
not to put all my eggs in one basket. That is to say I prefer having two
types of filtration on each tank. For tanks with gravel I use an under
gravel filter combined with either a power filter or canister filter. For
bare tanks I use sponge filters in combination with power filters or
canister filters.

When sizing your filter requirements remember that goldfish produce a lot of
waste. To be on the safe side I would use twice the filter that the
manufacturer recommends. For example, if a filter will handle up to a
125-gallon tank I would add two such filters to a 125-gallon tank.

While you do want enough circulation to remove all detritus and uneaten food
you don't want to overdo it. Fancy, round-bodied goldfish are not the most
efficient swimmers. When positioning the outflows for you filters, be aware
of what flow patterns you are setting up. Don't hesitate to add sponges to
out flow tubes to help break up the flow of the water. Also, try to keep
the surface of the water agitated. This is where the most of the exchange
happens between air and water.

In summary when selecting your filter set up think about how much work it
will be to maintain. Also, take a look at what your local fish store uses.
Ask fellow fish keepers. Then determine what will work best for you. Keep
in mind all filtration types require regular attention. If ignored, any
filter can become a ticking time bomb.

ฮือๆๆๆ.......อยากได้เป็นภาษาไทยอ่ะ

ก็มีประโยขน์นะครับ ค่อยๆอ่านดูจ้า

^^

Source มันเป็นภาษาอังกฤษอ่า ค่อยๆอ่านคับ ฝึกภาษา อิอิ

อย่างนี้ 3 วันก็อ่านไม่จบ
( เปิดดิกทีละตัว )

หู...อ่านแบบคร่าวๆก็ได้ครับ ไม่ต้องแปลทุกตัวหรอกครับ เอาแค่ใจความสำคัญครับ ดูเป็นประโยคๆรวมๆเอาก็เข้าใจได้ไม่ยากครับ ต้องค่อยๆลองดูครับผม

Source จากที่ไหนเหรอครับ

ไม่ได้อ่านละเอียดแต่รุสึกว่าดีแน่เลย :D

อ่า Search เจอะอะครับ ไม่ได้จำชื้อไว้ครับ ก็เป็นเรื่องทั่วไปเกี่ยวกับปลาทองครับ

GOLDFISH CARE : การดูแลปลาทอง

Color change of Goldfish : การเปลี่ยนแปลสีของปลาทอง

Are you you Killing your Goldfish with kindness? ดูแลดีเกินไปก็ใช่ว่าจะดี

"What's the best way to store my fish food?" : วิธีการเก็บอาหารปลาให้ดีที่สุด

The importance of "Vitamin C" in Goldfish Food : ความสำคัญของวิตามิน C ในอาหารปลา

One reason why fish hide! : หนึ่งเหตุผลที่ทำไมปลาถึงหลบ

What are the three common reasons some goldfish change colors? : 3 เหตุผลที่ทำให้ปลาเปลี่ยนสี

he proper use of Antibiotics : การใช้แอนตีไบโอติก

Enjoying fancy goldfish, what a great hobby!! : การเลี้ยงปลาทอง งานอดิเรกที่น่าสนใจ

“U. V. in the Goldfish Tank” : การใช้หลอด UV กับตู้ปลาทอง

ความคิดเห็นที่ 10


"Filtration Options for Goldfish Aquariums" : ระบบกรองที่ดีแบบต่างๆ สำหรับปลาทอง


^^

พยายามอ่านไปได้ 3 คคห.ละค่ะ..ตาเริ่มลาย...
แต่ก็มีประโยชน์ดีค่ะ..จับใจความได้คร่าวๆว่า..ต้องเชื่อมั่นในตนเองหากคุณเลี้ยงปลาได้ดีอยู่แล้ว...คำแนะนำบางอย่างอาจทำให้ไขว้เขวไปผิดทาง..ก็จริงนะ...ละก็เรื่องอาหารถ้ามียี่ห้อเมดอินไทยแลนด์ ยี่ห้อไหนดีที่แนะนำก็บอกกันมั่งเน้อ...(เค้ายูเอสนิยม-เราก็ไทยนิยมมั่งสิเนอะ)..อิอิ..เผลอๆจะได้ประหยัดตังค์..ไม่ต้องซื้อ ซาก่งซากิ ฮิคาริไงคะ...

เป็นบทความ ที่ดี ครับ เหมาะสำหรับ มือใหม่ และ มือเก่า มีบางเรื่องผมก็พึ่งจะทราบ เช่น การการใช้ยารักษาโรคปลา อาจทำให้ ปลาสีซีดได้ สำหรับเหตุผลนั้นต้องอ่านดูนะครับ หรืออีกเรื่องก็คือ ประโยชน์ของ กรองกรวดแบบไหลย้อนกลับ เมื่อนำมาใช้ร่วมกับกรองรูปแบบอื่น ๆ (กรองกรวดแบบไหลย้อนกลับเป็นยังไงวะ... ลองหาความรู้จากแหล่งอื่นดูนะครับ)

แนะนำให้อ่านครับ ได้ทั้งความรู้ ได้ทั้งฝึกภาษาอังกฤษ

ขอเสียของบทความนี้ ก็คือ เชียร์สินค้า USA จนออกหน้าออกตา ครับ